The word ‘mulch’ isn’t a very glamorous one and as a task it sounds a lot less pleasant than it actually is. After a bit of research, I’ve found that it is a relatively easy and satisfying job that not only saves on the weeding but also benefits the plants quite significantly. Since giving it a go, I’m now describing it as putting a cosy blanket over the plants while they sleep for the winter, which seems to engage people much more readily.
Read on to learn more and see how mulching your garden and container plants can help improve soil quality, suppress weeds and offer protection from the elements.
Why Mulch?
A mulch is a layer of natural material approximately 5cm deep that is spread thickly over the soil around, but not touching, plants, shrubs and trees.
A mulch will reduce weed germination and growth, improve moisture retention in drier soils, drainage in heavy ones and help protect plant roots from hard frosts, drying winds and harsh sunlight. It can help to avoid soil erosion, maintain an even soil temperature and help spare plants from the constant up-splashing of soil that comes with heavy rain, which is particularly useful for those who hate the damp and soft fruit such as strawberries.
Choosing an organic mulch will support the ecosystem in your garden, attracting worms, beetles and the birds that feed on them. It will help to enrich your soil and promote strong plant growth as one containing good quality, natural materials will encourage the worms to take the mulch down into the soil where it will provide valuable nutrients for your plants and improve the structure of the soil at the same time.
A mulch can help often forgotten hedges to thrive, getting additional nutrients down to their tightly packed roots and give a much needed boost to fruit trees ahead of the growing season.
When To Mulch?
You can mulch around individual plants or containers at any time but if you are planning to cover a large area, the best time is between November and late March although you can tweak this depending on the weather conditions in your local area. Living in the North of the UK, I choose to do this in the autumn to help protect plants from the cold and improve drainage but in the South, many choose the spring, just as new growth is starting to appear when the mulch gives maximum benefit, just bear in mind that this may delay bulb growth for a while but it does negate the need for digging and potentially damaging the emerging bulbs. Choose what feels right for your space but remember that it is important to mulch while the soil is not frozen, only slightly damp and before any hidden weed seeds start to germinate.
What To Mulch With?
There’s a great deal of choice when it comes to mulching materials but I prefer something organic (made from dead plant material) and if possible, re-cycled and so low cost. If you don’t have access to that this year then maybe think about working on that in the next gardening cycle. Here are some suggestions:
· Compost
This is a good al-rounder, especially great for improving the soil and keeping the weeds suppressed. It can quite easily be made in your outdoor space from kitchen scraps and chopped up garden waste so is the ultimate in recycling. Just be cautious about grass clippings from a very weedy lawn as any seeds could introduce new weeds. Take a look here for some ideas Autumn Leaves
· Leaf mould
Another potentially free resource which isn’t as high in nutrients for the soil but does act as a good conditioner. It’s simply autumn leaves in a bag and then wait. You can find out how to have some for this time next year here Autumn Leaves
· Bark
Along with any kind of wood chippings, this slowly breaks down over time and is particularly good for improving the overall structure of the soil although it contains no nutrients. It can help improve both moisture retention in dry soils and drainage too. Pine cones fall into this category and can give a beautiful, seasonal look around the base of container plants while providing a haven for wildlife too.
· Horse manure
This must be the kind that has rotted down for about 2 years to avoid scorching plant leaves but if you can bear the smell, it is a hugely nutrient rich choice that really feeds poorer soils and is particularly good for roses, fruits and veggies.
· Mushroom Compost
This can be bought as a bi-product from mushroom growing. It is light, clean and is very alkaline so ideal for plants and veggies that love these conditions but take care to keep it away from those that don’t.
Inorganic mulches
These have particular uses in outdoor spaces, especially for weed suppression but do give some thought to how they might impact on the environment. I choose to avoid any type of man-made material such as plastic or rubber as overtime they can produce potentially harmful chemicals that contaminate the soil and eventually watercourses.
· Landscape fabric
An environmentally friendly fabric which allows air, water and nutrients to permeate through. It can be laid directly onto the soil or used under an inorganic mulch such as gravel to control weeds for spaces like a drive or in a gravel garden. In the latter, holes can be cut in the fabric and plants inserted, they will grow and weeds should not.
· Stones, slate chips and gravel
As mentioned above, ideal for gravel/dry gardens, topping pots and containers and helping seal moisture into the soil and suppress weeds. Just keep in mind that these materials can be heated by strong sun which makes them fine in the shade but unsuitable for all but the most tropical, heat loving plants and those planted for specific drought tolerant qualities.
How To Mulch?
The first task is to dig out any existing weeds as you don’t want these to grow more vigorously if you are feeding the soil.
You might also take the opportunity to remove any ground covering dead growth, but leave the hardy upright plants stems and seed heads for the wildlife until new growth begins.
Rake over the surface of the soil to even it out.
If you have any smaller perennials, a good trick is to cover them with an upturned plant pot so they don’t get buried or stepped on by accident.
Starting at the furthest away point of the area you are working on, lay approximately a 5cm depth of mulch onto the bare soil and spread it around but not touching the plants, using a rake, fork, spade or even your hands near the most delicate plants. Leave a circle of approximately 8cm around any shrubs/stems that are woody to prevent rotting.
Finally, another light rake to ensure a consistent covering and you’re all done.
I hope that this gives you some ideas, saves some weeding time and helps to improve your soil for a thriving planting scheme next year, do let me know if you have any good, sustainable options that I’ve not included, it’s always great to learn something new.
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